Choansan Mountain — From a Resting Place for Eunuchs to Nowon’s Hydrangea Garden

The Mountain of Eunuchs Created by the Gyeongguk Daejeon Rule on “Ten Ri Outside the Capital Fortress”

Choansan (楚安山) is a granite mountain in Korea, 114.1 m above sea level, spanning Chang-dong, Dobong-gu, and Wolgye-dong, Nowon-gu, Seoul Special City, Republic of Korea. It is said that the name Choansan (楚安山) originated from the idea of choosing a comfortable resting place, as more than 1,000 tombs from the Joseon period are concentrated here. Choansan is a low, gently sloping hill with sandy soil that drains well and is not rugged. The Jungrangcheon Stream flows to the left of the mountain and the Uicheon Stream to the right, fulfilling the conditions of traditional feng shui.

There was also an administrative reason why this mountain became the largest burial ground of the Joseon period where people of different social statuses were buried together. During the Joseon period, bodies from within the Seoul capital fortress could leave only through Gwanghuimun, Sugumun, or Sigumun Gates. The only mountains located approximately 3.93 km (10 ri) outside Gwanghuimun were Dobongsan and Bukhansan. Since these two mountains were guardian mountains protecting Seoul and were therefore unsuitable for graves, Choansan became the most suitable place for burials. In fact, the Choansan area was formerly known as Gakshimsari, Yangju, and its location complied with the Gyeongguk Daejeon provision requiring eunuchs’ graves to be placed 10 ri outside the capital fortress.

Historic Site No. 440, “Seoul Choansan Burial Mounds” — A Shared Cemetery Crossing Social Statuses, Revealed by More Than 1,000 Graves

Choansan contains more than 1,000 Joseon-period tombs belonging to eunuchs, court ladies, yangban aristocrats, and commoners. On March 9, 2002, it was designated Historic Site No. 440, “Seoul Choansan Burial Mounds.” Within an area of 319,503㎡, more than 1,000 tombs of various social classes—including Joseon-period eunuch burial grounds, yangban, jungin, court ladies, and commoners—remain, with various stone objects scattered around the graves. A distinctive feature is the scattered tombs and stone monuments of diverse social groups, including sadaebu scholar-officials, military officials, jungin middle-class people, seoin commoners, eunuchs, and senior court ladies.

Among the representative burial grounds, the Yean Yi clan burial ground southeast of Choansan contains the tomb and stele of Left State Councillor Yi Myeong (1496–1572). The Taean Yi clan burial ground to the north centers on the tomb of Yi Ihae (1707–1771), Deputy Director of the Directorate of Central Affairs, while the Miryang Park clan burial ground across from it was established around the tomb of Yi Uisuk (1534–1646), posthumously appointed Director of the Office of Military Provisions. Eunuch tombs discovered here include the joint tomb of Eunuch Seung Geuk-cheol and his wife, built in the 12th year of King Injo’s reign (1634), and the oldest surviving Joseon-period tombstone of a senior court lady, belonging to Lady Park. The joint tomb lies beneath a pavilion about 100 m north of the summit in the southeastern part of Choansan. The Choansan eunuch burial grounds were established from at least the first half of the 17th century through the end of the Joseon period.

Biseokgol Neighborhood Park — Korea’s First “Exhibition Park of Joseon-Period Tomb Stone Figures”

To visit the Choansan burial mounds, Wolgye High School in Wolgye-dong, Nowon-gu, is a good starting point; the address is San 8-3, Wolgye-dong, Nowon-gu, Seoul. A more substantial “Choansan Historical Journey” can be enjoyed by also viewing the Joseon-period tomb stones displayed in Biseokgol Neighborhood Park, located on the site of the Wolgye High School athletic field. As Korea’s first “exhibition park of Joseon-period tomb stone figures,” it displays a total of 31 stone figures, including 13 civil official figures, 6 boy figures, 8 pillar stones, 2 steles, and 2 offering tables.

Civil official figures dressed in bokdu and official robes or geumgwan ceremonial robes, along with pillar stones, boy figures, offering tables, and steles, are displayed as they appeared in their original form. Pillar stones, the stone columns erected in front of tombs, serve to make the tomb’s location recognizable from a distance. The actual burial-mound area on the mountain is difficult to maintain, and sections remain where the eunuch burial grounds lie neglected without descendants to care for them. Broken steles and pillar stones, as well as boy and civil official figures with their heads severed, still stand forlornly in place. Several visitor accounts also commonly mention that the area is so shaded by dense vegetation that sunlight barely penetrates even in midsummer.

A Gentle Hiking Trail Beginning at Nokcheon Station Exit 4

Choansan in Nowon-gu is a small, low mountain with well-maintained rest areas. The most representative hiking route begins at Nokcheon Station Exit 1, passes over the summit of Choansan, and descends from there. Its gentle slopes make it safe and enjoyable even for beginners. Along the trail, a sign indicates that the summit of Choansan is 1.1 km away. Choansan (114 m) is also considered a mountain worth revisiting after completing Course 21 of the Seoul Dullegil. It is introduced as a forest trail that can be toured in about three hours.

Before hiking, check the seasonal restriction periods. From March 2 to April 30 in spring and from November 1 to December 15 in autumn, some trail sections are temporarily closed during the wildfire-prevention periods. For inquiries and information, call 02-2116-3949 (Park Planning Team, Nowon-gu Office). There are no separate parking facilities. Oak trees are said to account for approximately 17% of Choansan’s total forest area.

Choansan Neighborhood Park — Changgol Soccer Field, an Ecological Pond, and a Name Changed in 1997

Choansan extends around its 114.1 m peak across Chang-dong, Dobong-gu, to the northwest (area: 673,166㎡), and Wolgye-dong, Nowon-gu, to the southeast (area: 950,643㎡). It was designated as a park under Ministry of Construction Public Notice No. 465 on August 6, 1971, and the park’s name was changed from Wolgye Park to Choansan Park on October 30, 1997. Approximately 100 Joseon-period eunuch tombs lie between the 114.1 m and 102.5 m peaks, while a mineral spring to the south serves as a resting place for nearby residents.

The park facilities on the Chang-dong side of Dobong-gu are also well equipped. Located below Choansan in a densely built apartment district, the park is used by residents for jogging, walking, and badminton. It contains community sports facilities such as Changgol Grass Field, a futsal court, and showers, as well as an ecological pond, aquatic plant beds, an observation deck, and a grass picnic plaza. The artificial-turf Changgol soccer field, on the site of the former Jeil Field, has a total area of 13,000㎡ and includes an international-standard soccer field (102 m × 64 m) and a jogging track 356㎡ long and 3.78 m wide. Park sections divided by roads are connected by an ecological overpass, whose edges have been planted with various types of trees.

In the Third Week of June, Choansan Hydrangea Garden Colors Nowon’s Summer

Choansan Hydrangea Garden was created by Nowon-gu in 2023 after restoring forestland damaged by past garbage dumping and illegal cultivation. About 11,000 plants of 20 varieties, including Annabelle, Endless Summer, and star hydrangeas, bloom successively to create a lush floral landscape. The natural scenery of waterfalls and an ecological pond is enhanced by nighttime lighting, allowing visitors to enjoy bright hydrangeas during the day and nighttime views after dark.

The garden is located at 51 Uicheon-ro, Nowon-gu, Seoul. It is open Tuesday through Sunday from 09:00 to 21:00 and closed every Monday. The walking path leads into Choansan’s natural forest trail, and the garden is characterized by its terraced layout built in layers along gentle slopes. In 2026, the “2026 Choansan Hydrangea Festival” will be held on June 20–21 around Choansan Hydrangea Garden and the outdoor music hall of Yeomgwang High School, featuring performances, photo zones, and a food market.

At the End of the Walking Trail: “Nowon Uimaru” and the Barefoot Red-Clay Trail Along the Uicheon

The walking trail at Choansan Hydrangea Garden does not end inside the mountain but naturally continues to the banks of the Uicheon. Visitor reviews and on-site photographs report that the hydrangea garden has a red-clay trail for barefoot walking and a red-clay foot bath for cooling the feet, while a waterside space created by the Seoul Metropolitan Government adjoins the streamside.

At 11:00 a.m. on the 9th of Every Month: The Choansan Campground Reservation Battle

Set in a 1.62-million-㎡ forest, Choansan Campground has four areas: terraced sites using the hillside (5 sites), park-style sites on broad grassland (29 sites), natural forest sites (16 sites), and cabin houses (3 units). It offers 54 camping sites along with facilities such as tree houses, a grass plaza, a children’s playground, and a convenience store. The address is 89-27 Madle 5-gil, Nowon-gu, Seoul (Wolgye-dong), and operating hours are check-in at 14:00 and check-out at 11:00.

The fees include parking, and only one vehicle may be parked at the designated location for each site. Reservations for the following month open online on a first-come, first-served basis at 11:00 a.m. on the 9th of every month. Each person may reserve one site for up to two nights, and reservations are automatically canceled if payment is not made within three hours. The fee is 15,000–25,000 won per night. Each campsite is limited to six people, including infants and children, and inquiries can be made at 02-2289-6865. The campground is about a five-minute walk from Exit 4 of Nokcheon Station on Subway Line 1. However, reviews repeatedly note that reservations are difficult on weekends and during peak season but relatively easy on weekdays.

Who It Is—and Is Not—For

At 114.1 m above sea level, Choansan may feel underwhelming to visitors seeking a sense of accomplishment from hiking or expansive vistas. On the other hand, some sections require visitors to walk among actual Joseon-period tombs and stone monuments, so the mountain may not suit those uninterested in history or uncomfortable with secluded forest trails. There are genuinely sections where visitors encounter broken steles and headless boy figures in neglected eunuch burial grounds whose descendants no longer care for them.

Conversely, it is suitable for families who want to combine camping, the hydrangea garden, and historical exploration in one visit, as well as beginner hikers who want to work up a light sweat on gentle forest trails. The route from Nokcheon Station, with its gentle slopes, is the representative course where beginners can hike safely. The best time to visit is mid-to-late June, when the hydrangeas are at their peak, and the festival week (June 20–21 in 2026). However, visitors should check in advance that some trail sections may be closed during the spring wildfire-prevention period from March 2 to April 30 and the autumn period from November 1 to December 15.