Always-Already-There

A small gallery in Pyeongchang-dong where you stop and stand still before spreading ink

Artist Kang Young-hee's solo exhibition, Always-Already-There, is a painting exhibition. The traces of ink slowly spreading across paper, the intentionally left empty space, and the layered flow of color fill the canvas. If you translate the title literally, it means "Always-Already-There," and when you see the works, you get a vague sense of what that means. These are not paintings that struggle to "arrive" somewhere; they feel closer to quietly drawing out senses that were always already within us. So even without a long explanation, and even if you do not know Korean, each person will likely recall different memories when standing in front of the paintings.

The venue, Samseyoung, is a small gallery on Gallery Street in Pyeongchang-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul. The name Samseyoung carries the meaning of encompassing the past, present, and future, and it reflects the idea of old art moving from the past, contemporary art existing in the present, and both heading toward the future. In practice, you can also see a permanent exhibition of antiquities from the gallery's collection alongside the curated show, so after looking at one contemporary painting, you turn around and encounter an old artifact, which makes for a strange little time travel experience.

A neighborhood beneath Bukhansan, and why that made it even better

The real charm of Samseyoung lies beyond the artworks. The gallery's full-length windows bring the rocky cliff face right into view. When you turn away from the gray ink paintings, a real stone mountain appears in the window like a framed picture, and that scenery alone is a photo spot. Pyeongchang-dong is a quiet residential area along the slopes of Bukhansan, so simply walking through the alleys after leaving the gallery gives you a completely different atmosphere from the city center. Around Pyeongchang-dong, galleries and museums line up one after another, including Gana Art Center, Total Museum, Kim Chong Yung Museum, and the Seoul Museum Archive. It felt too good to visit only Samseyoung, so I kept half a day free and toured several places together.

Samseyoung calls itself the 'sarangbang of Pyeongchang-dong', lowering the barrier to entry and hosting cultural events that local residents and citizens can join. Perhaps because of that, the atmosphere is not intimidating but comfortable. Even if you are not an art major, and even if you are a foreign traveler, this is a place where you can open the door and step inside without feeling any pressure.

A foreign traveler's day — how to get there and what to bring

The first thing to know: Pyeongchang-dong is a hillside neighborhood, so there is no subway station right next door. The nearest subway is Gyeongbokgung Station on Line 3, but even that is quite far away, so you will end up taking a bus or transferring. City buses that go into Pyeongchang-dong include 1020, 1711, 7022, and 7212, and you can transfer from Gyeongbokgung Station or the Segeomjeong area. The roads have many uphill sections and curves, so I took a bus to the entrance of Pyeongchang-dong and then walked from one gallery to another. There are quite a few slopes, so sneakers are almost essential.

Admission is often free depending on the gallery exhibition, but be sure to check the opening hours, closing days, and exhibition period on Samseyoung's official channels before you go. Small galleries often have different weekday and weekend hours, or close during exhibition changes. It is the surest way to avoid a wasted trip.

You do not need to worry too much about language. Since it is a painting exhibition, the works themselves are the main attraction, and the ink, empty space, and flowing colors can be appreciated without any explanation. However, the artwork captions and artist notes may be mostly in Korean, so if you want deeper context, it helps to keep a translation app open. Convenience stores are not especially plentiful in the neighborhood, so it is better to bring water or a light snack in advance, or use the cafes scattered around Gallery Street. Pyeongchang-dong has cafes and bakeries with lovely views through large windows, so it is a nice place to sit and rest after seeing the exhibition.

What to know in advance so you are less surprised

Just remember a few things and the visit will be much smoother.

• Public transportation is the weak point. Since you cannot go straight there by subway, plan your bus transfer route in a map app beforehand. Checking the last bus time in advance also gives peace of mind.
• Gallery opening hours are usually concentrated in daytime hours, roughly from around 11 a.m. to around 7 p.m. If you leave in the late afternoon, it may be too tight to visit several places, so I recommend going in the morning.
• Because there are many hills and stairs, avoid high heels. On rainy days the roads get slippery, so an umbrella and shoes with good grip are safer.
• Small galleries may not have the same payment options or conveniences as a large museum. If you are only visiting and not buying art, that is usually not a problem.

With those points in mind, it is an excellent course if you want to escape the bustle of downtown and quietly enjoy art and scenery.

So who is this recommended for?

I would recommend it to anyone who wants to see art slowly in a quiet neighborhood rather than a crowded hotspot, anyone drawn to the mood of East Asian painting such as ink and empty space, and anyone who wants to take in the scenery of mountains and rocks framed in the window at the same time. Kang Young-hee's Always-Already-There was not an exhibition that spoke loudly; it was one that made something rise within me when I stood quietly still. Together with the clear air of Pyeongchang-dong, it will become one of the quietest and most memorable half-days of your Seoul trip.