Yoo Young-guk: The Mountain Is Within Me

At the end of Deoksugung Stone Wall Road, a meeting with "San" in the former Supreme Court building

If you walk about 5 minutes along Deoksugung Stone Wall Road, a weighty Renaissance-style stone building appears. It was built during the Japanese colonial period as the Gyeongseong Court, used as the Supreme Court after liberation, and has been the Seoul Museum of Art since 2002. The entire first-floor exhibition hall is now filled with the work of one painter. It is Yoo Youngkuk (1916-2002), a pioneer of Korean abstract art.

This exhibition is the largest retrospective ever to commemorate the 110th anniversary of Yoo Youngkuk's birth. It is also the first project in the Seoul Museum of Art's newly launched "Korean Modern Masters" series. It runs from May 19 to October 25, 2026 on the first floor of the Seosomun Main Branch. From avant-garde experiments during his studies in Tokyo in the 1930s to his final works, the exhibition features about 170 pieces, including 115 oil paintings, reliefs, photographs, drawings, and archival materials. What I liked most was that "San," built up with bold blocks of primary color, revealed its thick paint texture when viewed up close. That texture can never be captured in a photo, so this is something you really have to see in person.

Admission is free, but book ahead - viewing tips for foreign travelers

The first thing to know is that admission is free. You can simply walk in without buying a separate ticket. However, weekends and afternoons get crowded, so it is reassuring to reserve a time slot in advance on Seoul Public Service Reservation (yeyak.seoul.go.kr). Free admission is also available for walk-in visitors, but if you make a reservation, you can save time waiting in line at the entrance.

The route is not difficult. Take Subway Lines 1 and 2 to City Hall Station and come out toward Deoksugung, and it is a short walk from there. I exited from Exit 1 of City Hall Station on Line 1 and walked along Deoksugung Stone Wall Road, and the road itself is a pleasant walking course, so I already felt better before even reaching the museum. There is a slight uphill section, so sneakers are more comfortable.

Opening hours vary by day. Tuesday through Thursday, it is open from 10:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m., and on Fridays it stays open until 9:00 p.m. On weekends and public holidays, it closes at 7:00 p.m. during the summer season (March-October). Admission is accepted until one hour before closing, so do not go too late. It is closed every Monday, and if Monday is a public holiday, it opens as normal. The exhibition period I visited falls entirely within the summer season, so aiming for a weekday evening means fewer crowds.

The exhibition route is also distinctive. Instead of viewing the works chronologically from the earliest pieces like a typical retrospective, it is organized into five parts that start from 1964, the turning point in the artist's career, then move backward in time before flowing forward again. It may feel confusing at first, but it actually makes you follow the question of "Why did this person make such a decision?" If you are worried about English, you can rent an audio guide narrated by Sunwook Kim (Korean) and Peter Bint (English) on-site for a fee. English guidance is available, so even foreign visitors can follow along easily on their own.

Busy times and things to bring - practical tips worth knowing in advance

There are lockers and stroller rentals, so even if you have a lot of belongings, it is fine. However, since this is a popular exhibition, weekends in the afternoon can get quite crowded. If you want to take your time in front of the works, weekday mornings or late Friday evenings are good. One more note: this exhibition also drew attention because it includes a work owned by BTS member RM. So K-pop fan travelers also came specially to see it.

After viewing the exhibition, there is a space selling more than 100 kinds of art goods, and a pop-up cafe serving a special drink inspired by the artist's hometown of Uljin. Postcards or exhibition catalogues can make memorable souvenirs, so they are worth considering. Payment is generally smooth with cards and mobile payments at the museum shop, but bringing a little cash can be reassuring.

• Reservation: Free, but advance time-slot booking via Public Service Reservation is recommended (walk-ins also allowed)
• Closed: Every Monday (opens as normal if Monday is a public holiday)
• Last admission: 1 hour before closing
• Audio guide: Available in Korean and English, for paid on-site rental
• Clothing: Comfortable shoes for the uphill stone wall road

If you are drawn to color and form

I recommend this to anyone who wants to see how Korean modern art began, for free, in a beautiful old building in the heart of the city. Even if abstract painting feels difficult, that is okay. Yoo Youngkuk's mountains speak to the heart with color alone. Combined with a walk along Deoksugung Stone Wall Road, it makes for a satisfying half-day outing. The exhibition ends on October 25, so if your Seoul itinerary falls within that period, be sure to stop by.