Cheongju Suamgol: A Refugee Hillside That Became a 2007 Mural Village and Drama Location

The Starting Point of Suamgol, Formed at the Foot of Uamsan after the Korean War

Suamgol is a village that formed after refugees built shanty houses and settled at the foot of Uamsan following the Korean War. Although it adjoins downtown Cheongju, the layout of houses and alleys rising along the mountain slope remains, making this not simply an exhibition space but a residential area where residents actually live.

The name “Suamgol” is said to refer to a village located at 1 Suamgolmok. Culture City Cheongju introduces the relatively well-preserved area as Suamgol Mural Village and provides the Cheongju City Culture and Tourism Division contact number, 043-201-2043.

The Changes Added to Old Walls by the 2007 “A Walk Down Memory Lane” Project

Present-day Suamgol began with a public art project in 2007. As art groups painted murals on alley walls under the theme “A Walk Down Memory Lane,” the living alleys of the postwar refugee village changed into a cultural space to explore on foot.

Rather than visiting solely to see the murals, it is better to plan this as a place where you can take in the routes of the narrow stairways and residential neighborhood together. Because the alleys pass in front of residents’ homes, avoid loud voices, unauthorized photography, and stopping for a long time in front of entrances. Be sure to take all trash with you.

The Drama Routes Left by the 2009 “Cain and Abel” and 2010 “Baker King, Kim Tak-gu”

Suamgol gained nationwide recognition after becoming known as a filming location for the 2009 SBS drama “Cain and Abel” and the 2010 KBS2 drama “Baker King, Kim Tak-gu.” It was later mentioned as a setting for dramas such as “Glory Jane,” and the mural alleys and mountain-slope views of the city became part of Suamgol’s image.

The location known as Palbong Bakery from “Baker King, Kim Tak-gu,” as well as drama-related markers, may be affected by changes in the operation of commercial facilities within the village. If you are visiting a particular café or shop, check separately whether it is open on the day of departure. Note that the village itself is not a tourist attraction requiring admission tickets for specific drama facilities.

A 10-Minute Uphill Walk Starting at Uam Elementary School or Uam Church Bus Stops

According to guidance from the Korea Tourism Organization, bus users can get off at the “Uam Elementary School” or “Uam Church” bus stop and walk approximately 10 minutes to Suamgol. Older tourism information introduced a route using bus 105 or 105-1 from Cheongju Express Bus Terminal, getting off in front of Uam Elementary School.

However, city bus routes and schedules may be reorganized, so it is safest to reconfirm routes 105 and 105-1 through Cheongju’s bus information service before departure. Stairs and sloping alleys continue throughout the village, so sneakers, a hands-free bag, and an umbrella or waterproof jacket to reduce slipping on rainy days are practical.

• Primary access stops: Uam Elementary School, Uam Church
• Walk after getting off: Approximately 10 minutes
• Terrain: Slopes and stair alleys at the foot of Uamsan
• Address-based location: 13-6 Suam-ro 56beon-gil, Sangdang-gu, Cheongju-si, Chungcheongbuk-do

Open Year-Round and Free, but Not a “24-Hour Tourist Attraction”

The Korea Tourism Organization’s travel article lists Suamgol Mural Village as open “year-round” with “no admission fee.” In other words, visitors can walk through the alleys free of charge without a separate ticket office or reservation, and no regular closing day is separately listed.

Although the tourism organization lists the operating period as “year-round,” it is appropriate to avoid visiting early in the morning or late at night because these are residential alleys. To enjoy both the photos and the views, arrive with plenty of time before sunset. Shops, cafés, and restrooms each have different operating hours and closing days, so do not confuse them with the village’s year-round access information.

• Visiting period: Open year-round
• Admission: Free
• Reservation: Not required
• Village inquiries: 043-253-1330
• Cheongju City Culture and Tourism Division: 043-201-2043

Use the Public Restroom at 54 Suam-ro and Suamgol Off-Street Public Parking Lot as Reference Points

The Suamgol metaverse facility information lists the address of the Suamgol public restroom as 54 Suam-ro, Sangdang-gu, Cheongju-si, Chungcheongbuk-do, and the telephone number as 043-201-5392. For first-time visitors, using this facility as a reference point on the map makes it easy to identify the restroom before entering the alleys.

For cars, check the Suamgol off-street public parking lot and nearby available parking areas first, but it is better not to force your way into the narrow roads inside the mountain-slope village. Parking fees and operating hours may change, so check signs on-site or Cheongju’s parking information. On weekends and around sunset, public transportation and walking access are more reliable.

• Public restroom address: 54 Suam-ro, Sangdang-gu, Cheongju-si, Chungcheongbuk-do
• Public restroom telephone: 043-201-5392
• Nearby parking reference: Suamgol off-street public parking lot
• Recommended visiting time: 60–90 minutes including the murals and views

A Half-Day Around Old Downtown Cheongju, Continuing to Seongan-gil and the Iron Flagpole of Yongdusa Temple Site

The Korea Tourism Organization has previously proposed a one-night, two-day itinerary linking Seongan-gil, the Iron Flagpole of Yongdusa Temple Site, the Cheongju Early Printing Museum, the National Cheongju Museum, and Sangdangsanseong Fortress after Suamgol. Even when touring only Suamgol quickly, connecting Seongan-gil and the Iron Flagpole of Yongdusa Temple Site allows visitors to compare the mountain-slope residential area with the commercial and historic spaces of old downtown Cheongju in one itinerary.

If slopes are difficult or wheelchair or stroller access is needed, Suamgol’s stair alleys may not be suitable. In that case, choose only the lower entrance and road sections with views, and combine them with cultural facilities in the flatter old downtown area. The availability of regular foreign-language assistance has not been confirmed, so preparing a translation app and an offline map is recommended.